Friday, November 27, 2009

Thanksgiving Ice, yes more ice- 3 posts going back in time

On Thanksgiving, John and I went up to the 2nd Gully in Eureka Canyon west of Silverton. Peter and I climbed this a month ago and I knew the ice would be in thick. The drive in the Subaru up the snowy road was probably more exciting/scary than the climb. We sighed out of relief once we finally got the car turned around and pointed back down the road. Yeah Subaru!

Below- Heading up the 2nd pitch. By now the 7 degrees of when we'd left the car had turned into above freezing and I was way over-dressed.

The view back down and across from the climb is one of my favorites.

Putting in my last screw of the climb from a comfortable stance.

The rappel and hike down from this climb are WAY easier in the snow than on the rocks exposed a few weeks ago. We ended up being on the climb from about 9am to noon. It was a great start to a thanksgiving day.

Ice 11/22

On Sunday, Peter, John, and I did the middle gully between the two Peter and I climbed recently. Peter led the 3 ice pitches up this deep, cold gully.


Ice 11/22 continued





Ice 11/21

My 2nd day out on the ice, Peter and I climbed the Direct North Face, 2 gullies down from our first climb. I led the second pitch, which was disappointingly short. Here I am wondering if I'd lost my mind.

Starting up.
After this, there was mostly snow, with one more tiny ice bit.

Ice 11/21 continued

3rd pitch? Peter had to go for a little personal trip around the corner, so I studied the ice formations around me.

These cauliflowers were small, but strong enough to get us up this super steep pitch.

The last pitch of ice was longer and steeper than it looked from below.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

My First Ice Climb of the Year

Peter and I got a 6am start and drove over to Silverton on the 8th of November in search of ice. We found this nice 400 ft flow on South Mineral Creek. The approach was made super easy by the lack of deep snow- only a couple of inches are left on the ground.

Here is an ice screw partially removed. Though they provide essential protection, one should never fall when ice climbing... if that makes any sense.


After finishing the first climb and grabbing some hot coffee in town, we drove east of town to scope out other climbs. We couldn't resist climbing this gully with ice reaching clear to the road. I love early season approaches! No snow means clear roads and no avalanche danger.

Here are a couple pics of me taken by Peter from the belay stations.



After a rocky descent, we were satisfied with the day and ready for a meal. Here I am looking back up at the lower part of the 800ft + just climbed.

My Favorite Babies

Hiking with Ginny and Granite on the Chief Ouray trail during a warm November day.

Johnny with 8 month olds William and Peter. 2 wonderful weeks were spent in October hanging with the twins and Julie and Ben in Missoula, MT.

1610 Oak St., Ouray, CO

John and I scored a 1200ft apartment (2B/2B) in Ouray until May of 2010 when the owner returns after a winter in California. It is located behind the main house above the 3 car garage of which one bay is mine, which will make leaving for an ambulance call much easier this winter. The structure was just finished recently, so it is much nicer than we are used to.


Across the street runs the Uncombahgre River and a 2 mile "River Walk" perfect for running workouts. One mile up the county road is the heart of town.


Steps running up to the first floor of our apartment.


Living room area. More on the next post.

More of the Inside


Bedroom and doors to the deck.
Other side of the bedroom, used as office area.


Kitchen, dining area, and more doors to the deck and grilling area.

Dining area with stairs going to the lounge area and gear room/spare bed. Note the gas fireplace to the right. It gives off some serious heat.



We put the futon and TV ($5 thrift store score) upstairs.

One Last House Pic


Spare room/Gear room

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Another Tall Mountain

13656 ft Coxcomb Peak. We had to walk around to the south face to do our chosen route. After this weekend snow really started piling up on the high mountains.

Peter walking to the summit.

Me on the summit goofing around.

Looking west to Wetterhorn.



Me and Wetterhorn partway down Coxcomb.

Fall Climbing

Hiking up Bear Creek where colors have already started to turn in early September.

Baby Granite fell asleep on the way to "X Rock" in Durango, so we secured his backpack to a branch with a daisy chain. This was his first climbing trip!


I finally got back to Ophir wall, also in September.
Me.


Peter and Simon (on "Chubaka")